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April 5, 1927. Re. 16,584

REVERSE PLA TING BY ACTION OF CASTING-OFF MECHANISM Original Filed Aug. 6, 1925 15 sheets-511961? 1 I J u r I I I I Riven/Z 02: R051??? HLCLZOG an,

A ril 5, 1927. R. H. LAWSON Re. 16,584

REVERSE PLATING BY ACTION OF CASTING-OFF MECHANISM Original Filed Aug. 6, 1925 15 ShBBtS-She9t 2 I nvenio r BoZe-WEHL @206 o a a y t LI 7 e l I April 5, 1927. Re. 16,584

REVERSE PLATING BY ACTION OF CASTING 'OFF MECHANISM Filed Aug. 1925 3 Sheet Sheet :5

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REVERSE PLATING BY ACTION OF CASTING OFF MECHANISM April 5, 1927.

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REVERSE PLATING BY ACTION OF CASTING'OFF MECHANISM Original Filed Aug. 6, 1925 15 Sheets-Sheet 5 April 5, 1927. LAWSON Re. 16,584

REVERSE PLATING BY ACTION OF CASTING-0FF MECHANISM Ori inal Filed Aug. 6, 19 15 Sheets-Sheet 6 April 5, 1927. H. LAWSON Re. 16,584

REVERSE PLATING BY ACTION OF CASTING-OFF MECHANISM Original Filed Aug. 6, 1925 15 Sheets-Sheet 7 1 129.10. 62: 68

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April 5,1927. Re. 16,584

REVERSE PLATING BY ACTION OF CASTING-OFF MECHANISM R. H. LAWSON Original Filed Aug, 6, 1925 15 Sheets-Sheet B VInve'n/Zo w: IloZzeWZ HLawsozw,

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REVERSE PLATING BY ACTION OF CASTING'OFF MECHANISM Original Filed Aug. 6 1925 5 Sheets-Sheet l2 I I I I I a. u an W 98 /o/ oo April 5, 1927. LAWSON Re. 16,584

REVERSE PLATING BY ACTION OF CASTING-OFF MECHANISM Original Fil 6, 1925 15 SheetsSheet 15 A ril 5, 1927. LAWSN Re. 16,584

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EMaaMMV r l d7 ill] Reissued Apr. 5, 1927.

UNITED STATES ROBERT E. LAWSON, OF PAWTUCKE'I',

PATENT OFFICE.

RHODE ISLAND, ASSIGNOR TO HEMPHILL COK- PANY, OF CENTRAL FALLS, RHODE ISLAND, A. CORPORATION OF MASQACHUBETTS.

REVERSE PLATING BY ACTION OF CASTING OFF MECHANISM.

Original No. 1,605,895, dated November 2, 1926, Serial No. 48,546, filed August 8, 1985. Application for reissue filed January 28, 1927. Serial No. 164,336.

This invention relates to reverse plating by the action of casting off mechanism and includes not only the novel mechanism one type of which will be disclosed, but also a novel process and fabric as well as novel instrumentalities herein disclosed as web holders.

In order that the principle of the invention maybe readily understood, I have disclosed a single embodiment of the'mechanism, the fabric and the instrumentalities, and will describe the best way known to me for carrying out the process or method of my invention.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a side elevation of a hose or stocking constructed in accordance with my invention, the vertical stripes being short or intarrupted;

Fig. 2 is a very much enlarged detail, illustrating enough of the stitches or loops to make apparent the structure of the fabric of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 1, but representing the vertical stripes as continuous throughout the leg and foot of the hose or stocking;

Fig. 4 is a perspective view of a portion only of the fabric of Fig. 3 and upon an enlarged scale to show the manner in which the vertical stripes are formed;

Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 3, but representing both continuous and interrupted vertical stripes and also horizontal stripes;

Fig. 6 is a View similar to Fig. 2, hutpf the structure shown in Fi 5;

Fig. 7 is an end elevation of a knitting machine havin the mechanism of my in vention applied thereto and by which my process or method may be practiced;

Fig. 8 is a rear elevation of the mechanism shown in Fig. 7;

Fig. 9 is a horizontal section taken under the latch ring of the machine and showing a portion of the means for effecting the control of the casting off instrnmentalities or web holders in accordance with my invention;

Fig. 10 is a plan view. with parts shown in dotted lines, of the head of the knitting machine, having certain controlling cams applied thereto in accordance with my inventlon;

Fig. 11 is a vertical, central, cross section of the mechanism shown in Fig. 10;

Fig. 12 is a rear elevation of the head of the knitting machine and adjacent parts of the mechanism for controlling the cams shown in Fig. 10;

Fig. 13 is an elevation of said mechanism viewed from the left in Fig. 12;

Fig. 14 is an elevation of said mechanism viewed from the right in Fig. 12;

Fig. 15 is a perspective view of certain of the casting off instrumentalities employed in making the hose or stocking of Figs. 1 and 2 and the associated needles, etc.;

Fig. 16 is an end view of the parts shown in Fig. 15; I

Figs. 17 and 18 are views similar to Figs. 15 and 16, but'of the parts em loyed in makin the hose or stocking of 3 and 4;

igs. 19 and 20 are views similar to Figs. 15 and 16, but of the parts employed in making the hose or stocking shown in Figs. 5 and 6;

Fig. 21 is a view-similar to Fig. 1 but representing still another arrangement of vertical stripes;

Fig. 22 is a detail, on a more enlarged scale, of a portion of the Fi 1 Fig. 23 is a detail in plan of certain of the web holders and their operating cams;

Fig. 24 is a pers ective view of five differentiated web ho ders, being one regular and four s ecial web holders that may be used with t e mechanism herein disclosed;

Fig. 25 represents, in side elevation, seven different ositions of a special web holder and the a. jacent needle, in the formation of a reversely plated loop;

Fig. 25 is an enlarged view of the needle as shown in Fig. 25.

Fig. 26 is a representation, similar to Fig.

25, of corresponding positions of a regular web holder and the adjacent needle, in the formation of a normally plated loo Fig. 26 is an enlarged view of the needle as shown in Fig. 26";

-Figs. 27, 27, 28 and 28 are enlarged views, in side elevation, of needles that may fabric shown in I be used in the practice of my invention in the formation of reverse] plated and normally plated loops respectively;

Fig. 29 is a view in side elevation of the latch ring, one of the yarn fingers and the means for feeding the two yarns or threads to their thread guides; and

Fig. 30 is a transverse section of the structure shown in Fig. 29, and shows all the yarn guides.

In accordance with my invention, I provide lengthwise extending stripes in fabrics formed wholly or in large part by a plating action, such fabric being herein represented as a. hose or stocking. It is evident, however, that my invention is not necessarily limited to the production of hosiery, although it is peculiarly adapted thereto and I shall disclose the same as made upon a circular knitting machine of the independent needle type.

Lengthwise extending or, what may briefly be termed as vertical stripes, have long been made in hosiery and other knitted fabrics. For example (and using the term vertical in a broad sense as meaning extending in a direction generally. lengthwise of the fabric) vertical stripes have been made by employing two yarns, which are fed together, and in such manner as to produce plating, and at the desired points floating one of said yarns so as to produce a stripe of the color of the other yarn.

My invention is radically contrasted from those fabrics wherein the vertical stripe is produced by the floating of one of the yar'ns at predetermined times. In accordance with my invention plating the fabric throughout the whole or a predetermined extent thereof is effected (if the fabric be a hose or stocking, the heel and toe and the garter top or upper end thereof are desirably not plat/ed), and where a vertical stripe is desiredI effect a reversal of the plating operation. That is, upon certain parts of the plated work, I came one of the threads to appear upon the outer face thereof and in other parts I cause the other thread to appear upon the outer fat e thereof, thus SGCUI'IHO a so-called vertical striping. Such vertical striping may be characterized by continuous or long stripes, or by short or interrupted str1pes, or various combinations of continuous and interrupted stripes may be resorted to, with the result that a great variety of effects may'be produced in accordance with my invention.

I am aware that there has been proposed as disclosed in the patent to Tebbutt, No. 1,145,522, July 6, 1915, to form full fashioned goods having single needle stripes wherein two yarns are fed in a plating relation to each other, and wherein, by the employment of a so-called thread reversing divider, the two yarns are slackened where the single needle stripe effect is to be secured,

' and such slackcned yarns are rolled upon each other by said thread reversing divider to secure a reversal of the plated appearance.

My invention, not only as to mechanism and process but also as to fabric and instrumentalities employed, is sharply contrasted with the disclosure in said patent to Tebbutt, in various ways which will be more specifirally referred to hereinafter. For example, I operate with independent needles, between which are positioned casting 01f instrumentalities herein shown as web holders and, when no vertical striping is to be effected, all said web holders or instrumentalities act in what may be termed a normal manner, so that what I may term normal plating results. Certain of said web holders or instrumentalities are of peculiar formation and, when reverse plating is to be secured, are projected inward at an earlier point circumferentially considered, in accordance with my invention (in other words, at an earlier point in the stitch forming operation than the regular web holders), so as to engage the yarn which was the backing yarn during normal lating, and so to position the same that it becomes the facing or front yarn. By the employment of suitable means, preferably automatic, the normal plating may be interrupted at any point; and reverse plating may be. effected at any desired wales and continued for as few or as many courses as desired, then to be replaced by normal platguch normal and reverse plating are efl'eeted without any change in the relative tension of the two yarns and no measuring of the yarn is effected in the formation of the loop, as is characteristic of full fashioned knitting machines.

Referring more particularly to the drawings, I have, in Fig. 1, represented at 1 a hose or stocking having a top portion which, in the case of a stocking, may be the garter top or. in the case of a hose, may be a rib top. The stocking is formed upon a circular independent needle machine, preferably of the latch needle type. and the heel 2 and toe 3 are preferably formed by reciprocating knitting. The leg 4 and foot 5 are preferably f'ormcd by rotary work and I have therein indicated short stripes (i of one color alternating with short stripes 7 of another color. In the particular structure shown in Fig. 1 each stripe 6, when discontinued is replaced by a stripe 7 in the same wales, and the constant repetition of this effect produces the result shown and which is merely one example of the effect which may be produced.

Referring to Fig. 2, itmay be assumed that the short stripe therein indicated at B is produced by feeding a white yarn 8 and a red yarn .i in such manner (namely with the red yarn under tension and the white yarn without tension. and also with the red yarn fed slightly in advance, cirllifi cumferentially considered, of the white yarn, all as hereinafter disclosed) that the red yarn 9 appears uponthe outside or face of the fabric at the points indicated, the white yarn 8 being at such points also knitted into the fabric in each loop thereof but plat d therewith, so that it will appear only at the back or inside face of the stocking or other fabricat such points. The white stripes C C, on the contrary, are produced by causing the casting off instrumentalities (herein dis:- closed as web holders) to push or force the white yarn to the front, to that it up ears upon the outer or front face of the fa ric; the red yarn, therefore, notwithstanding the tension thereon appearing at the inner or rear face of the fabric.

In Figs. 3 and 4 I have indicated another etlect produced in accordance with my invention. In Fig. 3, the stocking has continuous vertical or lengthwise stripes 11 of one yarn (red), between which are equal length stripes 12 of the other yarn (white). \Vhile these stripes may be. of any desired width, I have represented certain relatively wide white stripes 12 and l have tllOWf] the red stripes 11 as of a single needle width only, although it is to be understood that they may be of any desired width. Each red stripe ll is formed by what I term reverse plating and the red yarn 13 appears at the front and the white yarn 14 at the back, whereas this appearance is reversed in the white stripes 12. which are formed by 1 normal plating.

In Figs. 5 and (i, l have represented still another appearance characteristic of my invention. Therein the hose or stocking 15 is provided with certain uninterrupted red stripes 16 caused by normal plating and certain short or interrupted red stripes 17, also caused by normal plating, between which are white stripes 18 .caused by reverse plating and which may be interruptet-l or continued as desired. In this embodiment of the fabric of my invention and as shown also in Fig. I3. I have represented certain horizontal stripes it), which may be of any color desired but which are herein indicated as white. Such horizontal striping, which may also be employed with or in producing the fabric of Figs. 1, 2, 3 and 4, is preferably produced by interrupting momentarily or for any desired length of time the feeding of both the plating yarns and substituting therefor one yarn or two yarns both of the same color which are fed without any plating relation so as to produce the horizontal stripes 19 which in turn are discontinued when plating and reverse plating are again employed.

Thus the fabric of Figs. 5 and 6 is produced by three or it may be four yarns there being a red 21 and a white yarn 22 both knitted upon all the needles in a plating relation respectively normal and reversed to make the vertical stri es and a single yarn 23 or a double yarn wliich is substituted for the yarns 21, 22 and is continued only so long as the horizontal stripe is to be made.

Referring now to the mechanism by which the fabric is produced, it is to be understood that, assuming for purposes of description the fabric is a hose or stocking, the same is knitted upon a circular machine of the independent needle type. My invention may be applied to or embodied in various types of such circular knittin machines, but I have chosen to represent tfie same as applied to a machine of the well known Banner type disclosed in the patent to Joshua D. Hemphill, No. 933,443, dated September 7, 1909. In this type of machine the needle cylinder rotates while the cams remain stationary and, although the machine disclosed is for the purpose of producing hosiery, it is obviously not limited to this class of work. I will. however, describe my invention as applied to a machine of such type without liiniting it thereto excepting when expressly so stated in the claims.

Generally speaking the machine includes a rotating needle cylinder 24 mounted upon a suitable table 25 constituting a part of the frame of the knitting machine and, as is customary in this type of machine, said cylinder is arranged to be rotated to form the leg and the foot and to be reciprocate-d to form the heel and toe of the stocking. The means for effecting the rotary and reciprocating movement are substantially the same as those shown and described in the said Hemphill patent and, being well known, require no further description.

A plurality of yarn feeding elements is provided so as to feed not only the two yarns for plating but so as to feed such other yarns as may be required as, for example, the ya rn or yarns for producing the horizontal striping, the yarn or yarns for the heel, the yarn or yarns for the toe, and the high splicing and sole reinforcing yarn. Such feeding elements and the means for controlling the same will be hereinafter more fully referred to.

The machine is, as stated, of the independent needle type and the needles are desirably latch needles, more fully pointed out. Therefore, I emstate that the same is controlled from the 1 pattern cylinder. The entire mechanism is driven from the main drive shaft 29, having thereon the usual pulleys indicated at in Fig. 8, and also having suitable gearing including the pinion 31 for driving as will be hereinafter.

ploy a latch ring 26 equipped with suitable T ion t the heel and toe.

* larly Fig. 9.

the large gear 32 known as the 104 gear and which is mounted upon the shaft 33. From said main drive shaft is also driven in usual manner the quadrant 34, whereby the machine is reciproeated during the knitting of The machine is also provided with the usual narrowing pickers and the usual widening pickers, which are indi cated at 35 and 36 respectively, see particu These pickers are desirably those of the said Banner machine and require no further description.

The needle cylinder 24, as most clearly shown in Fig. 11, is provided with the usual needle grooves 237. wherein are mounted the latch needles 238. At the upper end of the cylinder is provided the usual web holder bed ring 39 having formed at its upper face, as usual, radial grooves receiving web holders indicated generally at -10. capable of radial movement in said grooves and reciprocated therein by certain cams now to be particularly described. The cap ring 41 is provided and. excepting as hereinafter pointed out, the. bed ring Ill! and the cap ring 41 are or may be of the usual construction. The said cap ring 41 has formed in its under face a suitable channel -12 to receive the upwardly extending butts of the entire series of web holders.

The said web holders, instead of being all of the same construction and of the same length of butt, are contrastingly formed, des it-ably as follows:

\Vhat may be termed the regular web holders are generally indicated at A in Fig. 1? and elsewhere. The said regular web holders are provided with rearwardly extending guide portions 43 having short upwardly extending butts 44 to be operated by the cam 45 therefor, shown most clearly in Fig. and which cam desirably constitutes a lixed part of the cap ring -11, since its position in said cap ring is or may he invariable. I employ one or a plurality of sets of special web holders. but desirably two sets thereof. for purposes which will be apparent. I have indicated at B in Fig. and elsewhere one of the web holders of the first special set, it having the rearwardly extending guide portion 46 and the medium height butt 4?. The butts 47 of this group of web holders B are operated by the fixed cam when said web holders B function as regular web holders and by the radially movable cam 48 when functioning as special web holders. Said movable cam 48 is clearly shown in plan in Fig. 10 as positioned di rectly over the regular cam -15. In addition, in this embodiment of my invention, I also employ a group of special'web holders C having rearwardly extending guiding portions 48 and high butts 49. desirably notched, as indicated at 50. The said butts 49 are operated by the fixed cam 45 when said web holders C function as regular web holders and by the radiall movable cam 51 shown in Fig. 10 as over ying the cam 48, when functioning as special web holders.

The web holders A are each provided with the throat 51' and above the same with the portion 52 of relatively slight height. The web holders B and C are provided with the throats 53 and there-above are provided with the portions 54. of much greater height than the portions 52 of the regular web holders. Said portions 54 are of peculiar formation. They are provided with quite sharp noses in, below each of which is the inclined edge and above which is the inclined edge the latter extending back to an edge 58, which is inclined backward at the angle shown instead of being vertical. I have discovered, in the course of my experimentation that, if the faces 58 were vertical, they would occasionally cause a severing of the yarn against the adjacent needles at one side or the other in making the heel or toe (and hence when acting as regular web holders) whereas, when the edge 58 is inclined as shown, the yarn may slip up the said edge and be released at the top of the web holder instead of being caught and severed by a vertical edge of the web holder and the adjacent needle stems.

If a stocking without the vertical striping is desired, that is, if solid or what 1 term normal plating is to be provided, all of the web holders. including the special web holders B and C as well as the regular web holders A, are moved inwardly to the same radial extent. and function as usual web holders. If, however, vertical striping is to he provided, one or both groups of said web holders B and C, according to the pattern desired. is or are moved inward at an earlier period by means of their respective cams 4H and 51, so as to cause each of said special web holders that is to function in the new tion of reverse plating to engage the llllt'li yarn (that is, the white yarn of Figs. 1, 2, 5 and (3. or the red yarn of Figs. 3 and 4). so as, to more the same inwardlv in advance of the yarn which had appeared at the front in normal plating, so that the result is to produce stripes of a width determined by the number of consecutive special web holders B or C and of a length dependent upon the, length of time the cam 48 or the cam .31 therefor is in its inner radial position and which in turn is dependent upon the pattern control, and of the color of the back yarn during normal plating.

The cams 48 and 51 are coaxially pivoted at 59 in the cap ring 41 and are provided with rearwardly extending ends 60, 61 re spectively engaged by springs 62, 63 secured at 34 upon the cap ring and acting normally to force said earns 48 and 51 outwardly into a position where they will not act up- Til III)

on the butts of the respective web holders B and C, or at least will not move them inwardly otherwise than is done by the regular web holder cam 45.

In a bracket or standard located at the narrowing picker side of the machine. as illustrated in Fig. 9, are mounted for sliding movement two bars 66, 67, of which the overlying or upper bar 66 strikes a pin 68 upon the overlying cam 51 and the lower bar 67 strikes a pin 69 upon the underlying movable cam 48. Thus, at times determined by the respective controlling means for the said bars, one or the other of the said cams 48, 51 is moved radially inward sufficiently for it to cause the special web holders controlled thereby to engage the back yarn and ett'ect reverse plating in the manner already described.

Each bar 66, 67 is connected by a pin, one of which is indicated at 70 in Fig. 9 to the proper lever 71, 72, pivoted at 73 upon the training of the machine so as to be swung in a horizontal plane at the proper times. The levers T1 and 72 are at their outer ends notched. as indicated at T4. 74. and are there engaged by the reduced ends 75, 76 of bell crank levers T7, 78 coaxially pivoted at 79 noon a bracket 80 and respectively connected at 81. 82 to downwardly extending links 83,

84, which are respectively connected at 85,

till

86 to levers 87, 88 coaxially pivoted at 89 upon the framing. The inner ends of said levers 87. 88 are provided with noses 90, 91 that ride upon suitable cams 92, 93 on cam or pattern drum 9% upon the usual pattern shaft 95.

The cams noon the pattern drum, which control said levers 8?, 88 are of such length and such shape as to provide vertical stripes, by a l'0\'0l2-'(. plating action, of the length desired.

The stocking in Figs. 1 and 2 is made by using only special web holders B and ,(1 In the middle part of Fig. 2 the special web holders B are used to effect the normal plating in red and these web holders are then pushed in by their special cam 48 as described to make the reverse plating in white thercbcneath. At right and left the special \veb holders C are used and they make the white reverse plating when ushed in but, if they operate as normal weli holders, they will make the red therebelow.

The stocking in Figs. 5 and 6 is made by the use of all three web holders A, B and C. The short red rows are made by the plain web holders A and the red would be continnons were it not interrupted to make the horizontal stripes made by the introduction of a new yarn, namely. a white yarn. The uninterrupted white stripes are made by the special web holders B which are pushed in by their own cam 48, namely, the cam lying next above the stationary cam.

plating.

Referring again to Figs. 1 to 6 inclusive and to Figs. 10 and 11, it is to be understood that Figs. 1 to 6 are typical only of certain pattern efi'ects which may be produced, and that my invention is in no wise limited to the production of said patterns. If any portion of the stocking or other fabric is to be made with solid upiform plating throughout complete courses, all the Web holders act as regular web holders Whether as a matter of fact, they are of the type of web holders A or B or (J and, in such case, their butts are all engaged by the stationary cam 45 and project in only at such time as to produce normal plating which, in the case of Figs. 1, 2, 5 and 6, may be assumed to be red and, in the case of Figs. ll andel, may be assumed to be white. If rcveise plating is to be made at any point, this depending upon whether the reverse plating is to be efl'ected by the use of web holders B or web holders C, the cam 48, or 51, as the case may be, is pushed in by the connections described, so that said special web holders B or C are an earlier period, that. is, slightly sooner as already described, so as to push what in normal plating was the back yarn over into such a position that it becomes the front; or facing yarn, and reverse plating occurs.

Referring specifically to Figs. 1 and 2, it is to be understood that the fabric or stocking there shown (aside from the top, the heel and the toe), is made Wholly by the use of the special web holders B and the special Web holders C. The portion shown in red in the upper part of the center of the figures and herein indicated by a bracket B, is produced by the special web holders B, which, in making said portion B of normal plating, are pushed in by the stationary cam 4-5 at the regular time, thus making nprmal The white portion in the same wales therebelow. and marked B" is produced by moving inwardly the cam 48 so as to engage the butts of these web holders B (namely, the medium height butts) and thereby cause the White yarn to be pushed to the front and reverse plating to occur.

The white short stripes to the right; and to the left of the bracket B and herein marked C C are produced by the special web holders (7, being projected inwardly by their cam 51 so that they engage the white yarn and push the same to the front and thereby effect reverse plating. The short stripes indicated as red below the short stripes G and herein marked C" C" are produced by withdrawing the movable cam 51 and causing said special web holders C to be pushed in only by the regular cam 45 and hence only at such time as to effect: the production of normal plating.

It will be understood that I may vary the pattern shown in Fig. 2 in various ways, as,

projected in radially at. Q 

